Ecotourism — Traveling Off the Beaten Track

At some point everybody needs a getaway. Work, finances, family;  the daily stressors of life can get to be overwhelming, which is why many of us relish our paid time off as that sacred part of the year where we can recharge the battery and feel human again. However, as responsible adults, conscious of the world we live in, the social and ecological spheres we navigate on a daily basis, we must also be cognizant that tourism strongly affects these environments.

A person’s “carbon footprint” refers to the total amount of greenhouse gas emissions they are responsible for. Greenhouse gases (GHGs), among other gases, include carbon dioxide (CO2) and methane (CH4). The Earth absorbs energy from the Sun and radiates it back into space, while GHGs absorb the energy and trap it in the atmosphere — leading to the “greenhouse effect” behind climate change. Human activity is directly responsible for the presently unsustainable rate of GHG emissions (transportation and the production and consumption of food, goods, and fuels being primary examples).

Most forms of vacationing involve a lot of GHG emissions. Taking a cruise, flying on a plane, eating way more than we should — these factors add up. What is more, there are the social aspects of travel and tourism to consider; the way that cultures and economic strata interact with each other. In looking for ways to offset the GHG emissions caused by our getaways, and in search of socially and environmentally responsible forms of travel, ecotourism provides a possible solution.

The International Ecotourism Society defines ecotourism as “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people.” The principles of ecotourism include: minimizing the ecological impact of travel, building environmental awareness and respect, positive experiences for visitors and hosts, the financial benefits of conservation, and raising awareness around host countries’ socio-political and environmental situations.

The ecotourism getaway that we will explore in this article is “wwoofing.” Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF) is a network of national organizations that facilitates the placement of volunteers on organic farms. You might be saying, “Hold on, I want a vacation. You’re talking about work here!” Hear us out. By the end of the story, you might agree that wwoofing is a fun and responsible way for people of all ages to explore the diversity that makes up our beautiful planet.

First, it is important to have some background on the connection between agriculture and GHGs. Agriculture is the largest contributor of non-CO2 GHGs, at 56 percent. Livestock contributes to 14.5 percent of total global GHG emissions (basically, cows let out a lot of CH4 out their back ends). Agriculture is also responsible for 75 percent of global deforestation. CO2 is primarily emitted through burning fossil fuels, but also through deforestation and soil degradation. On the plus side, soil health and forest re-growth, through a process called “carbon sequestration” can help remove excess carbon from the atmosphere.

We are hearing from gardener, environmental activist, and field reporter Nikoli Drewchin about his time volunteering at a WWOOF Farm in Nicaragua. This farm is currently experimenting with and implementing agricultural methods that have a less severe environmental impact.

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Eco-consciousness is penetrating like spring rain and a new generation of travel alternatives are sprouting up. WWOOF is a good example of an emerging nexus. It connects volunteers from all over the world with farms. Volunteers work a few hours a day in exchange for room and board. A minimum stay of two weeks is required. Hatched in England in 1971, WWOOF has grown to represent farms in dozens of countries.  It creates a web of friends and ideas, cross-pollinating a new generation of sustainable living. Eating is fun. Focusing on our emerging global food system is vital for making the party better and more delicious. WWOOF is barking up the right trees. Vesuvio Farm is a new WWOOF farm in Boaco, Nicaragua, where I have spent nine months volunteering. I will tell Vesuvio’s story to illustrate the movement.

My friend Raul Guerra is the third generation in his family to farm Vesuvio. He has recently returned to work on the farm after graduating with a master’s in plant breeding from the University of Wisconsin. When his grandfather bought the land 60 years ago, it took him three days to get there on horseback. Now it takes three hours by truck. The coffee and milk farm is in a glorious valley in central Nicaragua. El Rio Moa meanders through the bottom. Myriad flowering trees adorn the eccentric topography. Birds cackle and cuckoo in a fluttering frenzy of color. Lizards slither between rocks in split seconds. Monkeys twitter in the trees, ridiculing our terrestrial plight. A sloth gazes into the canopy, doing absolutely nothing.  A cow stops chewing grass to admire a large blue butterfly.

Raul opened his farm to the world because he wants to share it.  He needs fresh ideas and surprises. Improving his farm and his community hinges on the collaboration of other interested parties. I recently returned from visiting the farm for two weeks. A number of volunteers were staying there: an older couple from France, a student from Sweden, a Coloradan, and a Canadian.  Excited conversations fruited into active projects. Chicken coops and roosts materialized into clucks and chicks. A fermenting farmer introduced yogurt making, which led to  daily yogurt intake and strong stomachs. Lengthy discussions on soil buried all other “interesting” topics.  Do you realize how important it is for soil to breath?  How ants and microbes are crucial for decomposition and eventual nutrient absorption?

Farm worker house
Farm worker house

Afternoon baseball is a favorite pastime of workers, wwoofers, and visitors.  We would head out into the fields, sidestepping organic bases. Swinging for the fences, we threw together a ramshackle game that would heat up, ending in a sunset bath in the river.

Raul is set on improving Vesuvio. Organic seed production is his paramount pursuit.  Seed distribution is becoming more centralized, thereby reducing genetic diversity. He has started collecting seeds that he is compiling into a bank. By crossbreeding and selecting for positive traits, he will be able to sell organic seeds throughout the tropics. Raul will enrich the plant palate of his region, while preserving sturdy genetics for ages to come. Capturing biomass from the cattle is a major concern.  Bio-digesters house the gases from decomposing waste, which are then used in methane kitchens. This saves energy and reduces deforestation. Raul is also planning to use designs from Open Source Ecology to produce farm equipment for Vesuvio and his community. These designs allow you to produce machines at much lower prices. Until then, most tasks are carried out with horses and oxen. The animals work hard, but eat well and procreate often! Biodynamic principles of water storage and reforestation are other big concerns. By planting close to the river, Vesuvio reduces erosion. Many of the trees species are fruiting varieties.  A cycle of maturing fruits and nuts provides a delicious addition to rice and beans. Plans to start a natural healing center are underway and a sauna is also being built.

Choosing to visit a farm and help out can be serendipitous. It doesn’t cost much (the price of a plane ticket), you learn a lot, and explore areas less plastered by the global marketing aesthetic. Furthermore, the tropical countries I’ve visited have been filled with friendly people who are eager to hang out and play. Ideally, the osmosis of our interactions may directly help impoverished people in the tropics. Removing rigid financial walls between travelers and locals provides a less alienating scenario. Diverging from the popular tourist destinations exposes a populous less jaded by glaring inequality.  During my time at the farm I never once felt scared or threatened. On the contrary, locals were generous and were thrilled to exchange stories and experiences. One visit could initiate a lifetime relationship. Co-op’s between small farmers abroad could supply friends here with coffee and cacao.

Health is at the heart of life. Proper nutrition and exercise make you feel good. Agricultural prowess is embedded in the process. Moving around outside, eating fresh things, and breathing clean air are inherent aspects of our species. Living at the farm, I was able to try fresh cacao fruit, passion fruit, and cashew fruit — exquisite tastes I had no clue existed.

Like many of my peers, my relationship with nature had atrophied. Spending time in the middle of nowhere helped me to see the brilliance of the cosmos. Being in the tropics accentuated this realization. Life is so vibrant and colorful, any big box store pales in comparison. Wonder is unleashed in this warm, exotic universe.

Vesuvio in the dry season.
Vesuvio in the dry season.